A Decade Later, Bestia is Still an Extraordinary Restaurant
Bestia opened a little over a decade ago to great fanfare. I was working in downtown Los Angeles at the time; it was definitely the most difficult reservation to get in LA. But it was the place “to see and be seen.” Set in an abandon warehouse in a very dilapidated part of town, I was surprised at the location. But once I secured a reservation, of course, I went. The ambiance was funky but cool; the food was fantastic. But my thought was “Will this place really last?” I got my answer last evening. Apparently the owners, Chef Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis, knew exactly what they were doing when they opened Bestia 12 years ago.
Where to Begin: The Cocktails and Very Extensive Wine List
Bestia is renowned for the food, but the house cocktails are interesting, inventive and definitely worth a try. I started with Gwendolyn’s Will which was a mix of vermouth, amaro and prosecco at $17.00. My friend loves an Old Fashion but, of course, Bestia has developed an even better version, Chef’s Old Fashion, Chapter 3, at $20.00.
Unless you are an international wine connoisseur, you may need some suggestions from the sommelier. The wine list offers over 100 varieties, many from Italy, but also from all over the world. The list is updated frequently so you never know exactly what is available. The host will hand you the list when you are seated, but it’s rather intimidating. And because it’s updated so frequently, you won’t find it online.
To Begin
Our waiter advised us to select one dish from each of the four sections on the menu. The Antipasti section includes eleven different choices, each sounding more compelling as we perused the list. Should we try the Peruvian Scallop Crudo, the Mussels, or the Housemade Buttermilk Ricotta? As it turned out, we settled on the Herb Caesar Salad which was our waiter’s suggestion. It was not your ordinary Caesar: romaine. endive. parmigiano reggiano. squid ink breadcrumbs and lemon zest. Terrific!
The Pizze
There are five different choices of pizza on the menu: Margherita, Burrata, Gorgonzola, Clam Escabeche and Calabrese. Although I always love a good Margherita, we decided to venture out and have the Gorgonzola pizza. Rather than me trying to describe the ingredients, here is the info from the menu: broccoli di ciccio. mozzarella. grana padano. green peppercorn. olive oil. sea salt. The pizzas are as spectacular as you would expect from an Italian restaurant of this caliber. Prices are from $22.00 to $26.00.
The Paste
As is typical in a restaurant where diners order all courses at the same time, the dishes often come out as they are ready. The pasta was served just after the pizza arrived but it was a perfect combination. We selected the Ricotta Gnocchi which consisted of tomato sugo, saffron, basil, marjoram, and grana padano cheese. It is such a simple dish but it is remarkable how tomato, cheese and spices can be this good. There are six different paste on the menu. There is a nice balance between meat, fish and vegetable paste. The paste prices are from $25.00- $48.00.
Secondi
There are four choices on the Secondi menu: branzino, pork, lamb and ribeye. Given that I don’t eat meat, the choice was simple: branzino. I have never seen a branzino prepared in this manner: pine nut pesto, chili, basil and lemon generously topped on the filet. It is unique and absolutely wonderful. Aside from a few bones (which the waiter warned us about) it was a terrific choice. The Secondi prices are from $48- $185 (for the Wagyu Ribeye)
Finally: Dolci
Honestly we probably didn’t need dessert but who can resist a Bar Au Chocolat Bittersweet Chocolate Budino Tart? It was late; I completely forget to shoot this amazing dessert so I had to “borrow” a pic. But what a way to end a meal. Salted caramel, cacao crust, sea salt and olive oil. Honestly do not miss the desserts. There are seven choices on the menu and it was so hard to just pick one!
It has been many years since I last visited Bestia. It may have been even better than I remembered. It still has that funky, cool ambiance, the service was attentive and helpful, and we had a memorable experience. The cuisine is modern, rustic Italian; frankly some of the best Italian food in Los Angeles. It’s still difficult to score a reservation; even on a Monday the place was packed. But if you haven’t made it to Bestia, you will not be disappointed. I promise!
XO
Wendy